We pick up Teen2 from a sleepover in Newcastle (or should that be stayawakeover?) and gently break the news that she is expected to go for a walk and expend some energy rather than slump in front of the computer all afternoon ‘msning’ other teens with whom she has just shared a floor. Ignoring the complaints about about unreasonable parents, we head for the Northumberland coast; the A1 is clear but the sideroads are still treacherous with ice. Arriving at Craster, the public carpark is like a skating rink and we are glad to find some tasty butties from the Piper’s Pitch catering van – all freshly cooked and very good value. Andy Grant’s business was so popular that he was recently saved from unjust closure by a local petition.
Wonderhubby, Teen 1 and I lick our fingers and lips (but not Teen 2 who is still full of pancakes from her stayawakeover breakfast) as we wander down to Craster, a village famed for its smoked kippers and like so many places in Northumberland – it’s the land that time forgot in a free from the duress of modern life kind of way.
Past the harbour, through the gate and across the fields, the enigmatic outline of Dunstanburgh Castle comes into view; it’s structure ravaged by the elements, jagged teeth coming down to meet the water’s edge. We walk along to the constant pounding of waves against the rock pools and the plaintiff cries of oystercatchers too shy to pose for the camera.
It’s a bright crisp afternoon but the ice hasn’t yet melted from over a week ago and is evident in puddles along the walk and yes those are kids skating, Edwardian style on the frozen lake.
Inside the castle grounds is just as brooding and mysterious. Built in 1313, the castle was intended to be a statement of power, a two finger job to the southern King Edward II by Baron, Earl Thomas of Lancaster. Possibly the origins of the of the North/South divide?
It’s such an atmospheric place and being a writer I can feel an idea coming on, but I try my best to suppress this because already in my head are so many stories and so little time.
The views from the castle grounds are amazing: to the north Embleton Bay and to the west inland, the peak of The Cheviot can be see in the distance covered in snow.
It’s an amazing place to rest your mind, space is so important to get your thoughts in order, find that creative solution. It’s great to find a refuge from all those digital demands we are hostage to and to take time out as a family to enjoy each other’s company. As we make our way back to the car, dusk falling and shadows long in the low winter sun, even Teen 2 looks like she has enjoyed herself - not that she would admit it.
